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How to Recover a Stuck Truck Safely

If you go off-road long enough, you’re going to get stuck. Getting unstuck without anybody getting hurt is the part that matters.

Quick answer Hook a stretchy recovery (snatch) strap to rated recovery points on both trucks, never to a hitch ball, tie-down or bumper, and never use a chain for a snatch. Drape a damper or heavy blanket over the middle of the strap, get everyone out and well back (at least 1.5 times the strap’s length, and never in line with it), agree on signals, then have the recovery truck take up the slack gently.
How to Recover a Stuck Truck Safely
Photo: dave_7 from Lethbridge, Canada / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0
Tools & materials

  • Recovery strap rated for your trucks (not a tow strap)
  • Soft shackles or rated bow shackles
  • Recovery damper, heavy bag or blanket
  • Shovel
  • Gloves
  • Your owner’s manual (to find the recovery points)

Steps

  1. Stop and look. Figure out what’s holding you and where solid ground is. If it’s beyond your gear or skill, call a professional; that’s cheaper than an injury.
  2. Find rated recovery points. Check your owner’s manual for where your truck’s recovery points are, on both trucks. Tie-down loops, trailer hitch balls, bumpers and suspension parts are not recovery points. Hitch balls aren’t made for these loads and can snap off and fly like a bullet.
  3. Use the right strap. A recovery (snatch) strap stretches and stores energy, which eases the shock on both trucks. A tow strap or chain doesn’t stretch, so it shock-loads everything and can break something. Use a recovery strap with a minimum breaking strength of about two to three times the gross vehicle weight of the lighter truck. Never use a recovery strap for ordinary towing.
  4. Inspect it. Don’t use a strap that’s cut, frayed or damaged. A soaking-wet strap is weaker and stretches less.
  5. Connect it. Use a soft shackle or a load-rated bow shackle at each end. Soft shackles have no metal pin to turn into a projectile. If using a steel shackle, tighten the pin until it seats, then back it off about half a turn. Never join two straps with a shackle; if one breaks, the shackle becomes a missile.
  6. Line up. Put the recovery truck as straight in line with the stuck truck as possible, with the strap untwisted and a few feet of slack.
  7. Dampen it. Drape a recovery damper, heavy bag or blanket over the middle of the strap to knock it down if something lets go.
  8. Clear the area. Passengers out. Everyone stands at least 1.5 times the strap’s unstretched length away, and never in line with the strap or in the path of either truck.
  9. Agree on signals. Both drivers know who goes when, which way, and when to stop.
  10. Pull. The recovery truck eases forward to take up the slack and keeps going, letting the strap’s stretch do the work. The stuck truck drives gently at the same time. If it doesn’t come out, try again with a little more speed, not a lot. Avoid repeated hard jerks.
Safety: Recovery straps have killed people when hardware or recovery points let go. Rated points only, never a hitch ball or tie-down, never a chain for snatching, damper on, everybody well back.

How to Read a Tire Sidewall (and Pick the Right Pressure)

Tires are the only thing between your truck and the road. Worth knowing what the numbers on them say.

Quick answer Example: LT265/70R17 121S. LT = light truck tire (P = passenger). 265 = width in millimeters. 70 = sidewall height as a percent of the width. R = radial. 17 = wheel diameter in inches. 121 = load index. S = speed rating. For pressure, use the number on the tire placard in the driver’s door jamb or in your owner’s manual, checked cold. The number on the sidewall is the tire’s maximum, not the right pressure for your truck.
How to Read a Tire Sidewall (and Pick the Right Pressure)
Photo: Kifoc / Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
What you need

  • Tire pressure gauge
  • Your truck’s tire placard (driver’s door edge or door post) or owner’s manual

How to read it

  1. Find the size. It’s the biggest string of letters and numbers on the sidewall, like LT265/70R17.
  2. Tire type. A leading P means a passenger-car tire; LT means a light-truck tire.
  3. Width. The first number (265) is the tire’s width in millimeters.
  4. Aspect ratio. The number after the slash (70) is the sidewall’s height as a percentage of the width. Lower numbers mean a shorter sidewall.
  5. Construction. R means radial, which is what almost every modern tire is.
  6. Wheel size. The next number (17) is the wheel diameter in inches.
  7. Load index and speed rating. The code after the size (121S) is the load index (how much weight the tire can carry, from a chart) and the speed rating letter. Replacement tires should meet what your truck’s placard calls for.
  8. Age. Find the “DOT” code. Its last four digits are the week and year it was made: 2322 means the 23rd week of 2022.
  9. Right pressure. Look at the tire placard on the driver’s door edge or door post (or in the owner’s manual). That “recommended cold inflation pressure” is set by the vehicle maker for your truck. The “max press” on the sidewall is the most the tire should ever hold, not a target.
  10. Check it right. Check all tires, including the spare, at least once a month, when they’re cold: the truck hasn’t been driven for at least three hours. Add air until the gauge matches the placard.
Safety: Underinflated tires and overloaded vehicles are a major cause of tire failure. Don’t load past the weight limits on your placard.