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Perfect Hard-Boiled Eggs (Printable)

This is my go-to way to make hard-boiled eggs. Simple, and it just works.

Quick answer Put the eggs in a pot and cover them with cold water by an inch. Bring it to a boil, take it off the heat, cover, and let them stand 12 minutes for large eggs (15 for extra-large). Then put them straight into ice water for about 10 minutes.
Perfect Hard-Boiled Eggs (Printable)
Photo: 3steph14 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Tools & materials

  • Eggs (large)
  • Saucepan with lid
  • Bowl of ice water
  • Slotted spoon

Steps

  1. Lay the eggs in a single layer in the pot. Add cold water to cover by about 1 inch.
  2. Bring to a full boil over high heat.
  3. Turn off the heat, cover, and set a timer: 12 minutes for large eggs, 15 for extra-large.
  4. Move the eggs to ice water (or run cold water over them) and chill about 10 minutes.
  5. To peel, crack all over on the counter and start at the wide end where the air pocket is. Peeling under running water helps.
Safety: Refrigerate hard-cooked eggs within 2 hours and use them within a week.

Why it works

Coasting in hot water instead of hard-boiling cooks the eggs evenly without the green-gray ring around the yolk. The ice bath stops the cooking.

How to Test a Car Battery with a Multimeter

A cheap multimeter is one of the best tools you can own. Here’s how to use it on a battery.

Quick answer With the engine off and everything shut off, a healthy, fully charged battery reads about 12.6 volts. Around 12.4 is roughly 75% charged, about 12.2 is half, and 12.0 or below is nearly flat. While cranking, it shouldn’t drop below about 9.6 volts. A parts store can also do a free load test.
How to Test a Car Battery with a Multimeter
Photo: Jacek Halicki / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Tools & materials

  • Digital multimeter
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Wire brush (if terminals are corroded)

Steps

  1. Let the car sit at least an hour with everything off. Overnight gives the truest reading.
  2. Set the meter to DC volts, 20V range.
  3. Red probe on the + terminal, black on the −. Read the voltage.
  4. Read it: 12.6–12.8 V full; ~12.4 V about 75%; ~12.2 V about 50%; ~12.0 V about 25%; under ~11.8 V discharged.
  5. Cranking test: have a helper crank the engine while you watch the meter. If it dips below about 9.6 V, the battery is weak even if the resting number looked fine.
  6. Charging check: with the engine running, the reading should rise noticeably above the resting number. If it doesn’t, the alternator or wiring may be the problem rather than the battery.
  7. If it reads low, charge it fully and re-test the next day. A battery that won’t hold a charge needs replacing.
Safety: Keep tools from bridging the two terminals. Wear eye protection, and don’t smoke or make sparks near a battery.

How to Jump-Start a Car

Keep a set of jumper cables in every vehicle. Sooner or later you or somebody else will need them.

Quick answer Connect in this order: red clamp to the dead battery’s +, red to the good battery’s +, black to the good battery’s −, and the last black clamp to clean unpainted metal on the dead car’s engine, away from the battery. Start the good car, wait a few minutes, start the dead one, then remove the clamps in reverse order.
How to Jump-Start a Car
Photo: Mobiletireservicegta / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Tools & materials

  • Jumper cables (or a charged jump pack)
  • A running vehicle with a similar-voltage battery
  • Gloves and eye protection

Steps

  1. Park the cars close but not touching. Both off, parking brakes on. Check your owner’s manuals; some cars have specific jump points.
  2. Look at the dead battery. If it’s cracked, leaking or bulging, stop. Don’t jump it.
  3. Red clamp on the dead battery’s positive (+) terminal.
  4. Other red clamp on the good battery’s positive (+).
  5. Black clamp on the good battery’s negative (−).
  6. Last black clamp on a clean, unpainted metal bolt or bracket on the dead car’s engine, away from the battery and moving parts.
  7. Start the good car and let it run a few minutes. Then try the dead car.
  8. Once it runs, remove the clamps in reverse order: black from the engine, black from the good battery, red from the good battery, red from the dead battery.
  9. Drive a good while or put it on a charger so it can recharge. Then test the battery (see our battery-testing guide).
How to Jump-Start a Car
Photo: Tony Webster from Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
Safety: Batteries can give off explosive hydrogen gas. That’s why the last connection goes to engine metal and not the dead battery. Don’t let the clamps touch each other while any are connected.

How to Change a Flat Tire

Everybody who drives should know how to do this at least once before they need it.

Quick answer Get off the road onto firm, level ground. Put the hazards and parking brake on, and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground. Then jack at the marked lift point, swap the wheel, snug the nuts, lower the car, and tighten in a star pattern. Check the nuts again after a few miles.
How to Change a Flat Tire
Photo: Stian Martinsen / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Tools & materials

  • Spare tire (check its air pressure a couple of times a year)
  • Jack and lug wrench from the car
  • Owner’s manual (shows jack points)
  • Wheel chock or a brick
  • Flashlight and gloves

Steps

  1. Pull well off the road on firm, level ground. Hazards on, parking brake on, everyone out and away from traffic.
  2. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the flat.
  3. Pop off the hubcap if there is one. Loosen each lug nut about a half turn counterclockwise. Don’t remove them yet.
  4. Put the jack at the lift point shown in your manual and raise the car until the flat is a couple of inches off the ground.
  5. Remove the lug nuts (keep them together) and pull the wheel straight off.
  6. Line the spare up with the studs, push it on, and thread the nuts on by hand.
  7. Lower the car until the tire just touches. Tighten the nuts in a star (crisscross) pattern, not around the circle.
  8. Lower it all the way and tighten again in the star pattern. Stow the flat and tools.
  9. Re-check lug tightness after a short drive. Respect the speed and distance limits printed on a compact spare.
How to Change a Flat Tire
Photo: Xwizard35 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Safety: Never put any part of your body under a car held up only by a jack. If you’re on a narrow shoulder or highway, stay in the car with your belt on and call for roadside help.

How to Clean a Dryer Vent

This is one of those chores that’s easy to forget and really worth doing.

Quick answer Unplug the dryer (and shut off the gas if it’s a gas dryer), pull it out, disconnect the duct, and run a dryer-vent brush through the duct and out to the outside flap. Clean the lint screen every load and the vent at least once a year, or sooner if clothes take longer to dry.
How to Clean a Dryer Vent
Photo: Chalome / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Tools & materials

  • Dryer vent brush kit (flexible rods that chain together)
  • Vacuum with a hose attachment
  • Screwdriver or nut driver
  • Foil tape (not cloth duct tape)
  • Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct if replacing plastic or foil

Steps

  1. Unplug the dryer. On a gas dryer, close the gas valve and be gentle with the gas line.
  2. Pull the dryer out and loosen the clamp holding the duct to the back.
  3. Vacuum the lint from the dryer’s outlet and from inside the duct ends.
  4. Feed the brush through the duct toward the outside, spinning it the direction the kit says, and pull lint back out. Work from both ends if you can.
  5. Go outside and clear the vent hood. Make sure the flap opens freely and isn’t screened (screens catch lint).
  6. Replace any plastic or crushed foil duct with metal duct, keeping runs short and bends few.
  7. Reconnect, push the dryer back without kinking the duct, and run it on air. Check that air blows strongly outside.
Safety: In 2014–2018, US fire departments responded to an estimated 13,820 home fires a year that involved dryers, and failure to clean was the leading cause (NFPA). Don’t run the dryer when you’re away or asleep.

How to Unclog a Drain Without Chemicals

I’d rather grab a plunger than a jug of harsh chemicals. Here’s the order I’d try things in.

Quick answer Pull out any hair you can reach, then use a flat-cup sink plunger with a few inches of water. If that fails, clean the P-trap under the sink, then use a hand drain snake. Use hot tap water, not boiling, if you have plastic pipes or don’t know what you have.
How to Unclog a Drain Without Chemicals
Photo: M.Minderhoud / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Tools & materials

  • Flat-bottom cup plunger (not the flanged toilet kind)
  • Bucket and rubber gloves
  • Channel-lock pliers (for the trap)
  • Hand drain snake (about $25 or less)
  • Wet rag

Steps

  1. Remove the stopper and pull out hair and gunk you can see. A cheap plastic barbed strip works well for this.
  2. Leave a few inches of water in the sink so the plunger can seal. Plug the overflow hole (or the other side of a double sink) with a wet rag.
  3. Plunge straight up and down firmly several times, then pull off quickly. Repeat a few rounds.
  4. Clean the trap: set a bucket under the U-shaped pipe, unscrew the two slip nuts, dump and rinse the trap, and reinstall it hand-tight plus a little.
  5. Snake it: feed the cable into the pipe until you feel resistance, lock it, and crank while pushing gently. Pull back slowly. You’re trying to hook the clog and bring it out, not ram it further.
  6. Run hot tap water for a few minutes to flush what’s left.
  7. For a slow (not stopped) kitchen drain, hot water can move grease. Baking soda and vinegar can freshen a drain but won’t clear a real clog.
How to Unclog a Drain Without Chemicals
Photo: Frank C. Müller / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0 de
Safety: If anyone already poured chemical drain cleaner in, do not plunge or snake it. It can splash onto skin and eyes. Tell the plumber what was used. If more than one drain backs up, the problem is likely in the main line; call a pro.

How to Patch a Hole in Drywall

Holes in drywall happen. Doorknobs, furniture, life. Done right, nobody will ever know.

Quick answer Fill holes under 1/2 inch with spackle. Cover holes from 1/2 inch to about 6 inches with a self-adhesive mesh or metal patch, then two or three thin coats of compound. Bigger holes need a drywall piece cut to fit. Feather the edges, sand, prime, and paint.
How to Patch a Hole in Drywall
Photo: U.S. Navy NMCB4 by Petty Officer 1st Class Justin Rayburn / Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
Tools & materials

  • Spackle or lightweight joint compound
  • Self-adhesive patch (for medium holes)
  • 4–6 inch putty knife
  • Fine sanding sponge
  • Primer and matching paint

Steps

  1. Knock off loose paper and crumbs and wipe the area clean.
  2. Small holes: press spackle in with a putty knife (or your finger), slightly overfilled since it shrinks. Scrape level.
  3. Medium holes: center a self-adhesive patch over the hole and press it flat.
  4. Spread a thin coat of compound over the patch in a crisscross pattern, spreading it 1–2 inches beyond the edges. Press harder at the outer edges to feather them thin.
  5. Let it dry completely. Don’t keep fussing with wet compound; two or three strokes and leave it.
  6. Sand lightly until smooth. Don’t sand through to the mesh. Wipe off the dust.
  7. Add a second (and third if needed) thin coat, wider each time, sanding between coats.
  8. Prime the patch, then paint. Unprimed compound shows through as a dull spot.
Safety: Before cutting into a wall for a larger patch, use a stud finder and check for wires and pipes. Turn off power to that area if you’re unsure.

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet

A dripping faucet is one of those sounds you can’t unhear at night. Let’s shut it up for good.

Quick answer Shut off the valves under the sink, take the handle off, and replace whatever is worn. On a two-handle faucet that’s usually the rubber washer. On a single-handle faucet it’s usually the cartridge or its O-rings. Bring the old part to the store so you get an exact match.
How to Fix a Leaky Faucet
Photo: User:Dschwen / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.5
Tools & materials

  • Screwdriver and/or Allen key
  • Adjustable wrench (wrap the jaws in tape to protect the finish)
  • Replacement washer, O-rings or cartridge for your faucet model
  • Plumber’s grease
  • Towel and a sink stopper

Steps

  1. Turn both shut-off valves under the sink clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to drain the pressure.
  2. Plug the drain and lay a towel in the sink so small parts can’t escape.
  3. Pry off the decorative cap if there is one, remove the handle screw, and lift off the handle.
  4. Two-handle (compression) faucet: unscrew the packing nut and remove the stem. Remove the screw at the bottom of the stem and replace the rubber seat washer, plus the O-ring or packing if it’s worn. Feel the valve seat inside the faucet. If it’s pitted, it needs a seat wrench and a new seat.
  5. Single-handle (cartridge) faucet: remove the retaining nut or clip and pull the cartridge straight out. Note which way it faces. Replace the O-rings, or the whole cartridge if it’s cracked or worn.
  6. Lay parts out in the order they came off. Use a dab of plumber’s grease on new O-rings and reassemble.
  7. Turn the water on slowly, run hot and cold, and check for drips at the spout and around the handle.
Safety: Can’t tell which side drips on a two-handle faucet? Close just the hot valve. If the drip stops, it’s the hot side.

Why bother

A drip of one drop per second wastes roughly 192 gallons a month, according to the City of Rio Rancho water guide.

How to Fix a Running Toilet

Running toilets drive me nuts. The good news is this is usually a cheap, 20-minute fix.

Quick answer Most running toilets have a worn flapper or a water level set too high. Lift the tank lid: if water is spilling into the overflow tube, lower the float. If not, replace the flapper (bring the old one to the store so you match it).
How to Fix a Running Toilet
Photo: Tech. Sgt. Terrica Jones / Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
Tools & materials

  • Replacement flapper matched to your toilet (or a fill valve if that’s the problem)
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Sponge and towel
  • Pencil

Steps

  1. Take the tank lid off and set it somewhere it can’t fall. Watch what happens after a flush.
  2. Check the water level. When the tank finishes filling, the water should sit about 1/2 to 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube. If it’s running into the tube, lower the float: on a ball float, turn the adjusting screw on top of the fill valve (usually clockwise); on a cup float, squeeze the clip and slide the float down.
  3. Check the chain. It should have just a little slack when the flapper is closed. Too tight holds the flapper open; too long can get trapped under it.
  4. Test the flapper. Mark the water line with a pencil, shut off the supply valve behind the toilet, and wait 25 minutes or more. If the level drops, water is leaking past the flapper.
  5. Replace the flapper. Shut off the water, flush to drain the tank, unhook the chain and slip the old flapper off its ears. Wipe mineral grit off the valve seat, fit the new one, and reattach the chain with a little slack.
  6. Turn the water back on, let it fill, and flush a few times to check the seal and the level.
  7. Still filling nonstop? Lift the float by hand while it’s filling. If the water doesn’t stop, the fill valve is worn. Replace it following the instructions on the new valve’s package.
Safety: Turn the supply valve clockwise to close it. If that valve leaks or won’t turn, shut off the house main instead of forcing it.

Good to know

A flapper is a cheap part that wears out over time. Some water utilities suggest replacing it about every five years, before it starts leaking.

Info about Gaston Farm eggs

Common questions we get about our eggs:

  1. How long are they good for?    These are not like eggs from the store.  They last much longer, at least 4 weeks when left at room temperature and at least 3 months when refrigerated.
  2. Have they been washed?   No, we do not wash our eggs.  This is why they last so much longer. And you’re getting them days after they were laid, rather than weeks like at the store.
  3. Shouldn’t they be refrigerated?   They don’t have to be, but it does make them last longer. We do not refrigerate them because once they are cooled, they need to stay cool.  Our eggs are kept at room temperature until you get them – then you can put them in the fridge and they’ll last months.
  4. What is the date on the egg carton?   That is the date they were laid, not when they expire.
  5. Are these eggs from free-range chickens?  Yes, all of our chickens are free range. They get most of their diet from foraging, however we do provide them with certified organic feed and some high protein snacks every day.  Dehydrated black soldier larvae is their favorite!
  6. Do you want the egg cartons back?  We like to reuse them when possible, just to keep costs down.  They cost us about $1 each, so it’s nice to reuse them, but it’s not the end of the world if it doesn’t happen.

Farm fresh eggs are much better than the ones you buy at the grocery store, but why?
Here are a few reasons:

  1.  Farm eggs are much more fresh than eggs from a grocery store.  The grocery store eggs are typically 2-3 weeks old by the time they get to the grocery store, and they don’t last as long because the bloom has been washed off.   Farm eggs last much longer.
  2. Farm fresh eggs just taste better – especially when the hens are free range and eat quality feed as a supplement to the bugs and other forage they find on their own.  Happy hens lay better eggs.  These eggs are more rich in flavor – the yolks aren’t as pale as grocery store eggs.  This is partly because the grocery store eggs are laid by hens that are stuck in cages all day. They don’t get any fresh air, sunlight, or fulfillment. They just eat bulk feed and lay eggs that will taste watered down.   Eggs from happy, healthy hens have a much brighter yolk and are healthier for you. They also make a noticeable difference in the quality of baked foods.
  3. Farm fresh eggs last longer, and you can keep them at room temperature as long as they haven’t already been refrigerated.  Once refrigerated, they need to stay in the fridge.  But as long as the bloom has not been washed off, these eggs can last 3 to 6 months in the fridge!  Obviously they taste better within the first 2-3 weeks, but the bloom protects them from bacteria that causes the eggs to “go bad” like grocery store eggs.   Even when farm fresh eggs are 10 weeks old, their egg whites still grade out as Grade A.  The quality is just so much better.
  4. Farm fresh eggs are fun to look at!  We have hens that lay green eggs, some that lay speckled brown eggs, others are white or brown.   Store eggs are boring.
  5. Farm fresh eggs are usually less expensive than grocery store eggs.  When we can’t get rid of our eggs fast enough, we just give them away.  We’re not trying to make money off of them, we just want a little money to offset the cost of the egg cartons and some of the feed.  But even if we don’t make any money on the eggs, we’d still have chickens because they are so much fun to have around.  Some people will sell their eggs for more because they’re trying to break even, but we don’t care about the P&L on these.
  6. In the case of our eggs, our hens do not have anything added to their diet or bodies that could affect the quality of the eggs.  We do not vaccinate our hens, and they only eat certified organic feed as a supplement to their natural diet.  Their diet almost entirely consists of fresh grass, weeds, and bugs around the barns, and scraps we take them from our kitchen.  Eggs that are over 4 weeks old get boiled and we feed the yolk crumbles to them.  Our chickens also have constant access to well water that comes from an underground spring.  No tap water and fluoride for our girls.  These are the best eggs you’ll ever have!

All of our eggs are kept at room temperature inside our house until you get them, and we never wash the bloom off (also known as the cuticle).  We only rinse off any mud/feathers/poop with warm water and a silicone brush, but we do not use soap.  This is important because soap will kill the bloom, which makes the eggs go bad sooner.  You may want to wash the eggs with warm soapy water once you get them, if you plan to keep them in the fridge or freezer.

 

How to test any eggs for freshness

All of our eggs have a date on the carton, this is the date they were laid and collected.  If you’d like to test the eggs for freshness:

  • Fill a medium sized bowl with cool water
  • Gently place an egg in the water to see if it sinks or floats
  • If the egg sinks or lies horizontally on it’s side, it’s fresh.
  • If the egg sinks but remains vertical, it is still fresh but should be eaten soon.
  • If the egg floats, it’s no longer ideal for eating.

There are exceptions to these rules, but in general, they will help you check an egg for freshness before you crack it open.  This test works because fresh eggs do not have an air bubble inside.  As the egg ages, a bubble forms between the inner membrane and the shell, usually on the wider end of the egg.

Side note: we always put our eggs in the carton “upside down” with the smaller end down.  This helps the eggs last longer by helping keep the air sac inside an egg’s shell from touching the yolk.  The longer the air stays away from the yolk, the longer the egg will stay fresh.

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